What jewelry not to buy

a beginner's jewelry buying guide

As a 7th grader, I had few concerns. ‘What am I doing on Friday night?’ and ‘Why are my rings turning my fingers green???’

Curious, I investigated and discovered that when metals like brass, copper or other low-quality alloys react with moisture, sweat, or even the natural acidity of your skin, they oxidize and leave behind a greenish residue (copper carbonate). Surprisingly, the pack of rings I got from H&M for less than $10 was made of those low-quality alloys. (If you don’t get any farther than this paragraph, just remember: brass jewelry=bad.)

I realized over the long run, it would cost me less if I bought rings that wouldn’t tarnish, rather than continually replacing these low-quality ones. So thus begged the question: What rings don’t tarnish? How do I know what metals are high quality?

pinky ring is from RG and my index finger ring is from Georg Jensen

I did my due diligence and I learned that 14k gold is the best. It’s made of at least 58% gold and a mixture of alloy metals like copper, silver, zinc, or nickel. This combination maintains a rich color but is more durable and resistant to scratches. 18k gold contains 75% gold and 25% alloy metals, making it a less durable mix. 24k gold, pure gold, is beautiful, but it’s so soft that it’s really only good for collector’s pieces that are hardly worn. Generally, gold pieces are marked with a small stamp indicating their composition (if not, it’s a red flag).

Pinky and middle finger are heirlooms, index ring is from Wolf Circus, and thumb ring is Pandora

For my 16th birthday, I got a gold signet ring that was 14k gold plated over sterling silver. After wearing it almost every day for two-ish years, it was my silver signet ring. Lesson learned: there are different qualities of gold layering. Gold plated/gold dipped jewelry has a really thin layer of gold applied, but they are loosely used terms and don’t have a specific thickness standard, and the metals that they are bonded to vary. Not the best option. Gold-filled jewelry has a thick layer of gold (at least 5% of total weight) bonded to a base metal. Better option. Gold Vermeil is considered high-quality gold-plated jewelry where a thick layer (of at least 2.5 microns) is bonded to sterling silver. The best option for gold layering.

the 14k gold plated signet ring mid-transition to silver ring

Since college, I’ve had a raccoon-like obsession with silver. 925 sterling silver is my go-to. The ‘925’ name comes from its composition; it’s 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. Like a ‘70s boyband, the mix and dynamic are perfect. Pure silver is too soft to withstand daily wear. Like gold, sterling silver is typically marked by a small ‘925’ stamp. 14k white gold is also stunning, but is much more expensive than sterling silver and looks nearly identical. And the MVP, Platinum, is more durable, resistant to tarnishing, and more expensive. But I don’t like the color of platinum: not as pretty as white gold or sterling silver IMO.

My wedding ring (I love you Harrison!!) from Frank Darling.

While I only wear necklaces, bracelets, and rings made of pure or high-quality metal (since they have the most contact with skin) I’m more flexible with earrings. I’ve had non-pure metal earrings that never bothered me or tarnished after significant wear (though I’ve heard it’s better for your ears to wear pure metal).

I’ve focused this post on metal jewelry, but that only scratches the surface of all the jewelry out there, such as beaded jewelry and jewelry made from precious stones. Brands like Rooni, :At Present and Lie Studio sell some really beautiful stone pieces.

An amazing necklace I saw in Kenya made of bones and stones collected from the area.

Also- watches. The one I’m wearing below I got in Denmark and can’t find online. But I love Breda and vintage watches.

Below I’ve compiled a list of favorite jewelry brands, a few of which I haven’t tried myself, but have heard great things about. (V The label, Dunton Ellerkamp, :At Present, Starling, Alev, Dorsey and Spinelli Kilcollin.) All of these brands I think have original designs and at least a few pieces I feel would be perfect for everyday wear. I tried to organize by price, but forgive me if it’s not 100% correct; some of them have quite a wide range.

Link to a favorite piece from each shop: RG the shop, Jcrew (not a jewelry brand, but I felt obliged to include them because I wore earrings from here on my wedding day), Made by Mary, V The Label, Etsy, Gorjana, Mejuri, Dunton Ellerkamp, Monica Vinader, Lie Studio, Heaven Mayhem, Luv Aj, Wolf Circus, At Present, Frank Darling, Starling, David Yurman, Tiffany & Co., Spinelli Kilcollin, Alev Jewelry, Dorsey

xx

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